For years, the drinking scene around the area was lackluster. Then Wil Dee helped revolutionize what was being poured in Orange County. If you ask Dee, he refers to that time as the dark ages of bartending.

“If you didn’t have a creative bartender, especially in Orange County,” says Dee, “that Old Fashioned would be a bright red cherry, a sugar packet-muddled drink that was half soda water.”

That wasn’t good enough for Dee. When he opened Haven in 2009, he vowed that his place would be different.

“Things were static – as far as the spirits, wine, beer selection,” says Dee. “Things didn’t stay or move. It was just maintaining rather than being creative.”

Haven began as a gastropub and is now dubbed a craft kitchen and bar. Though its moniker changed over the years, one thing remained constant: Haven is celebrated for its craft beer and spirit selection.

Dee followed Haven’s success and opened another shop in Old Towne Orange called Provisions, a cafe, coffee, beer and wine shop. In 2016, he co-founded Chapman Crafted Beer & Coffee, which brews microcraft beer and roasts specialty coffee right in Orange.

As Dee’s beverage footprint grew, the city’s advancement also became important to him. Dee serves on the executive board for the Orange Chamber of Commerce and sits as vice president of the Orange County Brewers Guild. Beyond his civic responsibilities, Dee flies out to Louisville to taste special whiskeys blended by the famous Kentucky distiller Woodford Reserve for his O.C. restaurant.

“So tasting, that’s the fun part of it,” he says.

We caught up with Dee to learn what ignited his passion for beer and how Haven stays relevant as Old Towne Orange evolves.

What ignited your love for beer?

When I left Stubrik’s [Steakhouse & Bar], I went to Europe for two months. We visited so many countries around Europe. You get to taste so many different beers. That was my thing. We went to France, and when it came to Germany it was time for Oktoberfest. … The beer there had a difference in the flavor, texture. That was the start.

When I got back, I worked at Taps where they brew their own beer. Victor Novak wrote the book about brewing those particular styles. And that helped me build Haven, as far as the beverage program and that creativity.

Haven was one of the first places in Orange County to serve specialty beers and spirits. Why did you choose to do that when everyone seemed happy imbibing from the well?

It became one of those guiding principles, you have a product made by a company. You know what you’re going to get in terms of the quality.

At Haven, let’s have a draft list that’s a variety of styles. Fourteen years ago, you’d go into a place and a basic list would look like Bud Light, Coors Light, Stella, Amstel Light and maybe Heineken. Ultra was a big thing back then too. But all the styles were the same. That was the variety you’d see everywhere. It was just lagers.

How did you get people to try something new?

When I put my tap list here, people used to say, “Oh you have weird beer here. You don’t have American beer.”

And then, I’d say, “Actually, we have a beer made by someplace down here.”

We get a lot of new people and new faces around here. A lot of them asked for macro brands, but it’s no longer the case.

You also brew your own beer at Chapman Crafted. How did that begin?

Haven expanded into a place in Pasadena in 2011. That place had brewing equipment. So I reached out to a colleague and he had someone who was an independent craft home brewer. I met Chapman’s current brewer the year before during San Francisco beer week. He moved down here and applied for the job. My friend Randy [Nelson] wanted to come up with a production brewery and what’s left is Chapman Crafted.

Why did you open in Old Towne Orange?

We found a place in the city and Lisa Kim and our city manager Rick Otto at the time were like we want you in this property. It will be good for the local economy. A lot of it had to do with the principles that were put in place at Haven.

Speaking of Haven, now that craft beer and brown spirits are so common, how do you stay relevant?

People’s palates are more accustomed to craft beers and brown spirits. It worked out great for us because we always had a large hard alcohol selection – hard whiskey, gin; even our wine list is a 10-time Wine Spectator wine list.

As a graduate student, I saved to buy gifts for my family alongside the cheapest plane ticket. I counted more than 60 cousins, aunts, uncles, neighbors and well-wishers who were family. Every other year I returned, my suitcases filled with American goods – Kirkland cashews, Costco socks, Marshalls’ cashmere sweaters and, of course, Hershey’s chocolates from Target.

This was America that they knew – the land of Dove deodorants and Gillette razors. They eagerly awaited these gifts, and I gladly obliged. After all, the universal immigrant message was that we’ve made it. The aftershave for our uncle was proof.

Years passed. Grandmothers, uncles, parents, older cousins departed this earth. I’ve lived in America longer than India, relinquished my Indian citizenship and gained an American one. Home seems like many cities and yet none of them. As the youngest cousin, I am one of the few surviving Ghosh members. Now I live alone, child-free by choice, with no parents or spouse anymore. I am an outlier South Asian.

Growing up, our family home was filled with relatives visiting from Kolkata. Baba showed them the sights of New Delhi, heading to Sarojini Nagar Market for the latest kameezes, or Palika Bazaar for bootlegged Levis or secondhand Sidney Sheldon paperbacks.

Ma’s kitchen was a flurry with luchis frying in peanut oil, chicken cooking in a whistling pressure cooker, the smells of cinnamon ground with cloves sautéed in ghee mixed with grated onions/ginger/garlic, ready for minced goat curry.

Every weekend was a roaring gas flame roasting eggplant, or a turmeric-coated piece of hilsa or rohu sizzling in oil. We children – out of my mother’s path – stole a potato fry, sometimes a gajaa (fried dough dunked in sugar syrup). Our world was food – the prep, the cooking, the serving and then the cleanup. And repeat.

In America, I continued the Ghosh tradition. I cooked woks of cauliflower curry, masoor dal with onion seeds in ghee, chicken curry with cashews and garam masala for friends. I married for love, spent weekends cooking for my now-ex’s vegetarian family – spicy tomato rasam, eggplant with ground peanuts.

In a decade, the marriage sputtered. The parties stopped, dinners quit, and I was left with an empty house. I kept cooking, as if cooking would bring the magic back. Bowls of chicken curry, degchis of coconut shrimp, lamb curry haandis with ginger. In the empty house I cooked, reliving the comfort of knowing I had a family. But it didn’t matter – my parents were gone, my marriage was dead.

Life, however, predictably moves, even when heartbreak stalls time. My closest friends became family – we were “framily.” Now, every Diwali – the Festival of Lights – we celebrate with food. Then they clean up, fold the chairs away, toss the tablecloths in the washing machine, leftovers in Tupperware – much like my parents’ friends would when I was a child.

When the pandemic stalled our lives, I still cooked. I made boxes of fried rice with sautéed raisins, chicken curry in yogurt sauce, mustard fish steamed in banana leaves, sabudana khichdi – tapioca pearls with potatoes. I drove to the framily, honked outside, and they came down, masked, in sweatpants, happy to get food filled with love. We thought this would last a few weeks – every Friday, we Zoomed discussing the nothingness of a pandemic lockdown.

Then, when the pandemic dragged on, I decided to grow food to feed the framily. I filled my tiny yard with planters. An experiment.  Could I do what my Baba used to? Grow enough vegetables? After all, experiments fail.

That year, I grew greens, beets, cauliflower and pea shoots to feed my neighbors, friends, caterpillars and the occasional bug. Then, I graduated to bitter melon, green beans and kale alongside eggplants. I cook the greens with an occasional potato curry or a steamed fish. When life morphs, we transform expectations to hold love and food as the gift.

Who knows where we are headed next? After all, life doesn’t have a straightforward formula. But does it matter if our hearts hold “yes” and “joy” to guide us through it?

Take Phở Thìn 13 Lò Đúc, for instance. Little Saigon’s newest pho hot spot just touched down directly from Hanoi and brings with it authentic, delicately seasoned Northern-style pho in a region dominated by Southern-style pho, which is more robust and complex in flavor.

Order the signature phở tái lăn, which features tender ribeye and filet mignon stir-fried in ginger and garlic, a hallmark of their pho, which also comes blanketed in verdant spring onions. Ginger, onion and cinnamon are the primary aromatics here (versus the usual stars anise and cloves found in Southern pho), along with a reported 13 types of fresh fruit juice, which explains the broth’s sweetness.

Take note of the condiment jars filled with pickled garlic and pickled chilies – they’ll definitely punch up your bowl.

Pro-tip: Arrive early to nab a side of bánh quẩy (savory deep-fried breadsticks), which are perfect for dunking into the broth.

Over at Pho Redbo in Garden Grove, the wait can reach up to an hour on weekends. Seemingly everyone’s there for the American Wagyu beef pho, starting at $18 to $22 a bowl. For $50, you’ll get a stone pot of piping hot broth, with a platter of rare slices of American Wagyu and a bowl of fresh, wide rice noodles on the side.

Indeed, the Wagyu is buttery and basically melts on the tongue – the rather satisfying broth is redolent with rich, beefy aroma and flavor.

Sen Vietnamese Cuisine in Westminster hasn’t been open a year, but it already has a legion of devotees. You likely won’t find a table without an order of the Bánh Mì Que Pate, petite house-made baguettes stuffed with country-style pate, chili sauce and pork floss (shredded pork). Two come to an order ($5.50), and the baguettes arrive warm and crisp – the combination of savory, creamy with that slight zip of heat is irresistible. You’ll want to keep coming back for these.

Another must-try? The Bánh Đa Cua Hải Phòng, a crab noodle soup with unique, reddish-brown wide rice noodles that are pleasantly chewy, with housemade pork meatballs and shrimp.

Fans of the popular bánh xèo crepes might also fall for a similar dish called bánh khọt, which consists of savory rice flour mini-pancakes topped with shrimp or pork, accompanied with greens and herbs such as perilla leaves, lettuce, mint and shredded papaya that you’ll use to wrap up the pancakes and dip into the fish sauce (nuoc mam) and eat. The ones at Bánh Khọt Vũng Tàu in Westminster are thinner and lacier than most, possessing a delightfully remarkable crunch.

Of course, no visit to Little Saigon is complete without frequenting one of the many coffee and boba shops that abound. DaVien manages to stand out, thanks to its ability to consistently churn out some of the best-inspired takes on Vietnamese iced coffee or ca phe sua da.

Also, some credit should go to the shop’s use of pebble ice, the gold standard for iced drinks and for which the shop happens to be named after.

The ever-popular Egg Coffee comes crowned with a thick and creamy topping made from whipped egg yolks – all the better to cut the intensely robust coffee flavor. Oh, and when we say robust, we mean this may have you bouncing off the walls until the wee hours. You’re welcome.

The McDonald brothers, Richard “Dick” and Maurice “Mac,” opened the first golden arches location on North E Street in San Bernardino in the 1940s. Their humble venture changed the course of fast food in America.

Today, the North E Street pitstop no longer slings burgers. (A franchisee-operated restaurant in Downey, which opened in 1953, retains the title of oldest continually operating McDonald’s.)

But a Route 66 proponent named Albert Okura, who founded the Juan Pollo restaurant chain, decided that this place was important enough to preserve. He transformed the restaurant into a museum dedicated to the first McDonald’s.

It’s a kitschy place that highlights San Bernardino’s indelible mark on Americana food culture. It’s also a reminder that our food history is intertwined with unexpected places like San Bernardino – places that aren’t necessarily glamorous, but after all these years, they’re still good.

From freshly baked breads and cookies at Old Town Baking Company to Mexican American classics at family-owned Mitla Cafe, which opened in 1937, San Bernardino dining spans cultures and generations. The big chains and drive-thrus might be the first thing you think of when eating in the Inland Empire. But, hidden in nondescript strip malls is a vibrant food scene often overlooked.

Syrian-influenced Mediterranean food at Mr. Kebab and Jamaican beef patties at Dhat Island Caribbean Creole in Redlands are squeezed into unassuming plazas. Historic landmark restaurants such as Magic Lamp remain beloved multigenerational mainstays. Others, including Tartan of Redlands, started serving steaks in the 1960s. The same family has operated Old World Deli in Upland for half a century. These are places that take pride in not changing too much.

Life moves at such a dazzlingly fast pace. But, it’s these nostalgia-inducing restaurants that transport us back to the past with each bite. They keep San Bernardino special.

For real old-school California foodies, you must try these under-the-radar gems:

Mitla Cafe

The legend of Mitla Cafe started when Glenn Bell ate one of the restaurant’s famous crispy tacos. He loved the deep-fried tacos so much that it inspired him to start his own fast-food chain, Taco Bell.

To this day, Mitla Cafe’s fried-to-order crispy tacos are the must-try dish at this family-owned Mexican restaurant. For many California foodies, this place is an institution.

It’s one of those places where customers order old-school combination platters lined with tamales, chile con carne, enchiladas and chile rellenos.

Founded by matriarch Lucia Rodriguez in 1937, Mitla Cafe started as a lunch counter pit stop along Route 66. Rodriguez opened Mitla with her first husband, Vincente Montaño. But when she was widowed, she remarried a man named Salvador in the mid-1940s.

The couple expanded Mitla Cafe into the restaurant it is today. Lucia’s four children – Theresa Guillen, Helen Martinez, Vera Lopez and Frank Montaño – continued their mother’s legacy after she died in 1981. Then Vera, followed by Frank with his wife Irene Montaño, took over for decades. In 2013, Lucia’s youngest grandson and her great-grandson started overseeing operations.

602 N. Mount Vernon Ave, San Bernardino; 909-888-0460

Old Town Baking Company

This Inland Empire bakery was started by Don Bishop in 1999. Bishop got his training as the U.S. Army’s head night baker when he served in 1957. Decades later, he decided to revive his recipes.

Though Old Town Baking Company has brick-and-mortar locations, including one in San Bernardino, the bakery also frequents farmers markets. In Orange County, farm stands at Manassero Farms and Tanaka Farms in Irvine carry Old Town Baking Company breads, cookies and baked goods daily.

999 S. E St., San Bernardino; 909-945-0400

Vince’s Spaghetti Route 66

Vince’s Spaghetti opened in Ontario in September 1945, starting as a six-stool, open-air restaurant. Grandma Rose cooked the food in her own kitchen, located 50 yards away from the restaurant, and then hand-carried everything to the customers.

The business was run by three brothers and their wives. They chose the location since it was on one of the main roads to Palm Springs at the time. The restaurant expanded over the years and, in 1968, Vince’s seating was up to 400.

As its name suggests, Vince’s Spaghetti is known for its red-sauce pasta. Vince’s claims to serve more than 30 tons of spaghetti every month. Today, Vince’s includes three locations, all family owned and operated. The Rancho Cucamonga location opened in 1984 and serves Grandma Rose’s original recipes.

8241 Foothill Blvd., Rancho Cucamonga; 909-981-1003

Old World Deli

This no-frills, old-school Italian delicatessen still serves “the same meatballs just as Ben D’Aquila rolled 50 years ago.”

The family-owned and operated restaurant opened in 1969. D’Aquila was a trained butcher from Queens, New York, who moved his family cross-country to California. They arrived in a 1957 Chevy sedan, armed with his wife Lia’s Sicilian recipes and Ben’s skills as a butcher. Lia, who was a WWII survivor, remembers American troops liberating Italy after the war.

The food served at Old World Deli is a blend of Italian and American flavors – and, in some ways, reflects the family’s ancestry.

At Old World Deli, the Grinder cold deli sub, hot meatball sandwiches, New York-style hot dogs with kraut, and Sicilian pizza by the slice are gateway items to order. But, for regulars – and Wisconsinite transplants – the broasted chicken is not to miss.

Never heard of broasted chicken?

Combine the cooking power of a pressure cooker with a deep fryer and you have the Broaster, a trademarked cooking apparatus built in Beloit, Wisconsin. Broasted chicken, which was all the rage at old-school supper clubs, is less caloric than traditional fried chicken since it is exposed to the cooking oil for less time.

281 S. Mountain Ave., Upland; 909-608-0418

Tartan of Redlands

Tartan of Redlands is the quintessential steakhouse – prime rib on Saturdays; grilled steaks, lamb chops and burgers with thick-cut fries are mainstay menu items.

The American-style steakhouse opened April 15, 1964. Founded by three brothers – Velmer, Al and Art Croteau – the Tartan of Redlands remained a family business for decades. Their nephew, Larry Westen, managed the Tartan and eventually became a partner. Westen and his wife Barbara created the Tartan’s atmosphere, which became known as the “Cheers of Redlands.” When Westen died in May 2003, Larry Westen III took over.

In 2015, the Tartan was bought by Jeff Salamon and his wife, Lisa. Salamon, also known as “Solly,” was born in Boston, Mass., and served in the Marine Corps. Though the ownership changed over the years, the classic cocktail bar and sizable portions remain.

24 E. Redlands Blvd., Redlands; 909-335-8881

Steer ’n Stein

The steakhouse concept sprung to life in Huntington Beach in 1967. Though the Orange County location shuttered, Steer ’n Stein restaurants are still operating in Victorville, Moreno Valley, Hemet and Rancho Cucamonga.

As the name implies, beef and beer reign supreme here. The hand-cut steaks include the top-selling Stockyard and a 12-ounce choice sirloin. But the loaded potato skins are where most regulars start.

8348 Archibald Ave., Rancho Cucamonga

Magic Lamp

The Rancho Cucamonga steakhouse opened in 1955. The atmosphere outside conjures images of Old Hollywood meets Arabian Nights. Inside, red leather booths, white tablecloths and a circular brick fireplace exude a low-key lounge vibe.

The Magic Lamp feels like being transported back in time – and historians agree. The restaurant is recognized in Hampton Hotels’ Save-A-Landmark program as a site worth seeing.

Think: 1950s-style steakhouse with a Rat Pack vibe. Live jazz music on the weekends. Jumbo shrimp cocktails, signature prime rib with Yorkshire pudding and creamed horseradish, tableside carved Chateaubriand filet mignon with Béarnaise and Bordelaise sauces.

Even the desserts nod to old-school 1950s dining trends. The cherries jubilee flambé with cherry brandy and orange liqueur served over vanilla ice cream is simple and delicious.

8189 E. Foothill Blvd., Rancho Cucamonga

The Pines Modern Steakhouse

The Pines Modern Steakhouse at Yaamava’ Resort & Casino at San Manuel is continuously voted one of the top dining destinations in the Inland Empire. Wine Spectator honored the restaurant with the 2022 Award of Excellence. Seafood towers, Kobe beef and a cachet of rare, vintage and one-of-a-kind spirits are the eye-catching menu items.

But at The Pines, the steaks are where you should start. Choose from Kobe beef and other prime select cuts. Also be sure to save room for the house-made gelato and crème brûlée.

On weekends, the $79 brunch buffet includes a seafood display with snow crab, oysters and shrimp, a prime rib carving station, and à la carte options such as fried Jidori chicken and waffles, lobster hash and jumbo lump crab benedict.

777 San Manuel Blvd., Highland; 909-425-4889

Gazzolo’s Sausage Co. Restaurant and Deli

The old-world sausage maker prepares handmade sausages each week. The wurst meister uses fourth-generation European recipes to make classics such as bratwurst, bockwurst and knockwurst. Smoked Polish kielbasa and frankfurters emerge from the restaurant’s custom smokehouse.

The best way to sample the wurst meister’s wares are the sausage plates – served with hot German potato salad, homemade sauerkraut or red cabbage, and fresh-baked German bread with butter.

The menu also includes German, Bavarian, Swiss and Austrian specialities such as beef rouladen and wienerschnitzel.

A dessert not to miss: apple strudel that’s reminiscent of a drool-worthy scene from the film “Inglourious Basterds.”

132 E. Highland Ave., San Bernardino

Dhat Island Caribbean Creole

At Dhat Island Caribbean Creole oxtail stew and the yellow curry stewed goat share the menu with portobello sandwiches and green plantains. The Caribbean Creole flavors also extend to brunch. Beignets, cobbler and Southern fried chicken Benedict with Creole hollandaise sauce are great tiptoes for beginners to Caribbean and Creole flavors.

Red beans and rice, which is emblematic of Louisiana Creole cuisine, accompany most dishes.

The oxtail tamales and poisson (pan-seared fish, andouille sausage and shrimp) with grits are heartier dishes that conjure flavors of the islands.

308 W. State St., No. 1-A, Redlands; 909-798-6060

Mr. Kebab

Waled Daoud left his life in Syria in 1999. He immigrated to Riverside and started working as a waiter at Mr. Kebab. In Syria, he was a trained cook and brought that knowledge with him to the States. In 2005, Daoud took over as owner and chef of Mr. Kebab in Redlands. Along with his family, they opened a second location in Loma Linda in 2010.

The menu at both locations features more than 50 dishes ranging from Syrian specialities to all-American hamburgers. Starters include aromatic rice stuffed grape leaves with parsley and chopped tomatoes, kibbeh with ground beef and bulger, and dips such as mutabbal, creamy eggplant and tahini mixed with olive oil and lemon. The main dishes include the expected Mediterranean fare, falafel and shawarma. But Mr. Kebab also features more interesting plates such as quail and lamb chops.

Feeding a larger group? The family plate for five and catering options are available.

11201 California St., Suite A, Redlands; 909-335-8881

First Original McDonald’s Museum

Big Macs and fries are not served here – there’s a McDonald’s less than a mile away on Highland Avenue for that. This museum is the place where Richard and Maurice McDonald got their start in the 1940s, selling burgers, fries and beverages. In 1954, milkshake dispenser salesman Ray Kroc visited, was impressed by the business they had built, and convinced the brothers he could take their enterprise to another level. That’s the condensed version of the McDonald’s story, also depicted in 2016’s “The Founder,” with Michael Keaton as Kroc. If you want to check out memorabilia that celebrates the global fast-food behemoth, or simply stand on the ground where it all began, this is the place. It’s open seven days a week, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Admission is free.

1398 N. E St., San Bernardino; 909-885-6324

– Additional reporting by Jerry Rice

And while pioneers probably didn’t stop and take an extended visit, these days a road trip is a perfect way to see our favorite special spots in the Southwest.

Figuring out what to see on a Wild West road trip takes a bit of planning. Our version assumes you’ll begin in California and not try to do too much, so will only encompass our favorite spots in Nevada, Utah and Arizona. Come along to see ghost towns, hoodoos, natural arches, sandstone spectacles, dark-sky stars and a really huge hole in the ground. We’ll even suggest a few places to sleep, eat and be merry as well.

Before you begin, consider purchasing an annual national parks pass at the first park you enter. That $80 pass gets everyone in your car into every national park for a full year. You don’t have to be an American citizen to buy the annual pass, either. And if you are an American citizen age 62-plus, buy your lifetime pass for $80 and never again pay to enter a U.S. national park. Considering that Zion National Park’s entry fee is $35 per car, getting the annual pass is something of a no-brainer.

Nevada: Ghosts, Gold and Red Rock

While the lure of Sin City in Nevada is strong, there’s more to the Vegas environs than casinos and outlet malls. So sleep in Las Vegas to start your adventure if you’d like, perhaps in the comfortable beds at the all-suite Venetian Hotel, have a world-class meal at their estiatorio Milos restaurant, take in a show and then let the real wild adventure begin as you exit that glitzy place.

Start with an easy ride to the Red Rock Canyon Park, where you will need a timed reservation to enter between October and May. It’s just 15 minutes west of the Strip, but transports you to a completely different world, a land of massive striated red rocks, where easy walking trails lead to ancient Native American petroglyphs and perhaps even a glimpse of the protected (and endangered) desert tortoise, who calls this arid place home. This small park is a great start to seeing the incredible rock formations that await in Utah and Arizona.

Red Rock is lovely, but our favorite Nevada stop is Rhyolite, a gold-rush ghost town northwest of Vegas. Founded in 1904, it grew to a city of 5000 residents – and was abandoned by 1916. Today it is a delightful mix of art installations (begun in 1981) – think sculptures of all sorts and sizes – known as the Goldwell Open Air Museum and the abandoned brick homes, banks, railroad depot and a famed house built of glass bottles of the ghost town. The combination is absolutely fascinating and well worth the drive into what seems to be the middle of nowhere.

Utah: Hoodoos, Arches and Much More

Rolling north into southern Utah transports you into a world of contrasts, from vast arid deserts to densely wooded mountains, massive sandstone cliffs, amazing natural-stone arches and seriously wacky rock formations.

Begin in Zion, Utah’s first national park, where most months you’ll need to park your car and ride the free shuttle from the visitor center into the park. This park is so popular, with famed sites like Zion Canyon, Kolob Arch, the Narrows, the Court of the Patriarchs, the Great White Throne, the Temple of Sinawava and Angels Landing that massive crowds form, especially during the spring, summer and fall seasons. It’s so popular because it is an incredible place, with hiking, rock climbing and the scenic drive highlighting the experience. Jump on and off the shuttle as often as you’d like, but know to not miss the last one, as you’ll be walking nine miles to get out of the park if you do!

Bryce Canyon National Park is probably the most eye-popping, mind-boggling place you will ever see, with its hoodoos (“irregular rock formations,” which barely describe them adequately) of every shape, size and structure. It’s the largest concentration of these magical forms anywhere in the world, and a true must-see, bucket-list destination. Stay in the small town of Bryce (with Best Western and Ruby’s Inn being the two no-frills main hotels) or try to get the tough reservation into the rustic Lodge at Bryce Canyon if possible inside the park. Make your way up the one-way road to see all of the incredible sights in this unique part of the world and hike down into the canyon for a closer look. Don’t miss going in at night to have a true dark-sky experience, with Milky Way stargazing led by a park ranger. Remember to always bring a warm coat along in this park, for the night (and early morning) temps here can be seriously chilly at any time of year.

Moving on to the northwest, encounter Capitol Reef National Park, a true undiscovered gem of Utah. You’ll be gobsmacked at the huge cliffs of bright, rainbow-colored sandstone looming high above you, with peculiarly shaped hoodoos hanging at perilously odd angles. Find hidden arches and petroglyphs, take a horseback ride or a hike and be sure to spot the iconic white sandstone U.S. Capitol building-shaped dome before you move on west to Arches National Park. Take Route 24 to get a real feel of what faced pioneers as they crossed these barren sand dunes, and be sure to stop into Goblin Valley State Park, another hidden gem of sandstone hoodoos (called “goblins” here), in a breathtaking valley setting. There’s even a disc golf course in this park!

You’ll probably have to wait to enter Arches, as it’s one of America’s most iconic natural places. See Delicate Arch, Double Arch, Balanced Rock and Corona Arch once you make it in, seemingly delicate sandstone miracles of erosion. In nearby Moab discover the liveliest scene anywhere in this part of the world, so have a good meal, hit a bar or nightclub, and do some people-watching before you begin to go south toward Arizona and the Navajo Nation.

Approaching the Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park on the Utah/Arizona border, the iconic landscape there is bound to be familiar if you’re a film fan, as it has served as the spectacular setting of numerous famous movies. Think “Stagecoach,” “She Wore a Yellow Ribbon” and “Fort Apache,” for this is the place that John Wayne and John Ford turned into the world’s ultimate vision of the Wild West; later, “Forrest Gump” cemented it as an Instagram hotspot.

Monument Valley is owned by the Navajo Nation, so book a hotel room at Goulding’s Resort just outside, a scenic hotel that has welcomed visitors since the 1920s, and then drive in, paying $8 per person to see the Mittens, Elephant Butte, John Ford’s Point, Artist’s Point and more on the loop drive within the park. Taking a Navajo-guided tour is an incredible way to learn more about this sacred place and the indigenous people who still call it home.

Arizona: Sunrise, Sunset and a Flyover at the Big Hole

The last stop on our Wild West road trip is Arizona’s big hole in the ground, also known as the Grand Canyon. One of the world’s truly astonishing natural wonders, the canyon is the longest on the planet, but not the deepest, despite being over a mile down from the rims that mark where the Colorado River began eroding away the sandstone and limestone eons ago that created this eye-popping place.

Book way ahead to stay at the iconic El Tovar Hotel inside the park, for it’s the best way to see the sun rise and set right out your front door, the two best times to be hanging on the edge of the canyon and watching it change hues. Hike down into the canyon as far as you can go to see it up close, but do remember that climbing back out is a lot harder to do. For a once-in-a-lifetime thrill, hop on a helicopter via Grand Canyon Helicopters at the airport just outside of the south rim entrance and soar over the edge and swoop down into the canyon in a copter. Trust us, that is a moment you’ll never forget and a perfect ending to a Wild West journey filled with adventures and excitement – with not one shot fired along the way.

The winemakers in Santa Barbara wine country are renowned to be some of the very best at this – not just in California, but in the world. Wine Enthusiast named it Region of the Year in 2021.

To fully understand why the region is so special, you have to appreciate its unique geography. Santa Barbara Wine Country lies within a transverse valley – only one of two in the entirety of the Americas, the other being in Chile.

What this means is the valley runs east to west. Instead of the valley range working to isolate grapes from the elements and temperature changes, it instead acts as a funnel, pulling in the air off the ocean as well as everything it carries to coat the vines as it sees fit. The various micro-climates provided to the region by the transverse nature of the valleys give winemakers an immense amount of flavors within the grapes, and conditions to grow in.

Seven federally sanctioned American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) lie within greater Santa Barbara County. Santa Ynez Valley is an overlying AVA, which is then broken down into four sub-AVAs (west to east): Sta. Rita Hills, Ballard Canyon, Los Olivos District and Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara.

Sta. Maria Valley sits the farthest North. The newest AVA that was federally recognized in 2020 is Alisos Canyon AVA. More than 270 wineries work with more than 70 varietals of grapes to produce a staggering array of wines.

Facts are only the skeleton, however – it’s everything else around the bottle that truly makes the wines of Santa Barbara County special. The people who work the various AVAs are as warm and inviting as the sun that kisses the land. This isn’t to say there aren’t great experiences outside of Santa Barbara wine country, but there is a relaxed atmosphere here that’s rare. There is little pretense or expectations – gatekeeping to the world of wine is not something that exists in these lands.

Winemakers to know

Gretchen Voelcker, winemaker at Piazza Family Wines and Luna Hart in the Santa Ynez Valley, welcomes guests with a bright smile and open arms. Her energy and passion for her craft are beautifully infectious, and her wines are stunning.

At Piazza Family Wines and Luna Hart, she develops beautiful expressions of Pinot Noir, Grenache, Syrah and more. She doesn’t stop there – Voelcker utilizes all the colors of the rainbow. Her Graciano is vivacious and disarmingly delicious. Her Grüner Veltliner is simply divine. The entire experience of tasting wines here feels more like seeing an old friend than visiting a business.

Sunshine is one of the most important aspects of winemaking, and no one is a better embodiment of the very sun itself than Sunny Doench Stricker of Future Perfect Wine. When you think of going wine tasting, you want a welcoming environment to sit, sip and enjoy.

It’s best to learn about the process, the winemaker’s approach, and the wines themselves all while being able to feel comfortable and relaxed. Stricker’s wines are a direct reflection of that energy. Her wildly charming tasting room in Los Olivos is as if a glass of her Sparkling Blanc de Blanc became sentient and got a degree in hospitality and marketing. It’s no wonder Future Perfect is the place many choose to start their wine touring day – everyone loves a good sunrise.

Whimsy and welcoming excursions into the vineyard are fantastic, but who doesn’t love a luxurious afternoon of doing absolutely nothing (except tasting wine, of course)? The wines Steve Clifton produces at Vega Farm and Vineyard in Buellton are other-worldly. Save the airfare money to Italy and open some of these bottles instead. Nebbiolo, Teroldego, Sangiovese and many, many more varietals are all available to savor.

The massive property has been stunningly designed – farm animals for kids, amazing wines for adults, and a beautiful kitchen program for everyone to enjoy. The space is set up for event hosting as well.

The ability for the various AVAs to produce so many types of grapes makes this one of the most diverse growing regions on the planet. It’s also the variability of flavors within those very grapes that makes it truly exciting. Take Dragonette Cellars, for example – specifically their Sauvignon Blanc. Brothers John and Steve Dragonette and close friend Brandon Sparks-Gillis all run Dragonette Cellars. While they make a handful of other exceptionally good wines, tasting through their Sauvignon Blanc is like watching a magic trick.

Grapes are from three different farms – yet each within a stone’s throw of the other, give or take. One would expect the flavors to be similar given the proximity, but no. They’re distinctly different with every sip – minerality, salinity, citrus, floral notes and more. Wave after wave depicts the possibilities of what the region can produce.

Before you go

A trip to Santa Barbara wine country is more than just a weekend away, it’s a short drive to the flavors of the world.

Fire up the search engine – or, better yet, just download the app from the Santa Barbara Vintners Association – and get planning. Pack a bag, book a room. The Ballard Inn is a phenomenal choice (charming and chic, with an excellent in-house restaurant, impeccable wine list and management team. It’s a great location for trips to the AVAs and surrounding wineries).

1. Adventures by Disney Rhine River Cruise: Food & Wine 

This year, The Walt Disney Company celebrates its 100th anniversary. For the ultimate Disney lover who’s already dined at Disneyland’s 21 Royal, Napa Rose and Club 33, there’s another enticing dining experience that awaits.

Adventures by Disney offers vacations along the Rhine, Danube and the Seine. These itineraries are created in partnership with luxury river cruise operator AmaWaterways. The most enticing is the Adventures by Disney Rhine River Cruise: Food & Wine getaway, which is an adults-only epicurean adventure that transports guests to France and Germany.

A team of up to six Disney-trained Adventure Guides double as hosts in each destination where Disney storytelling intertwines with cultural immersion. Think: wine tasting at the Cave Historique Des Hospices in Strasbourg, France, followed by lunch onboard highlighting Strasbourg cuisine, which is influenced by French and German cultures.

The experience also is educational. Guests can learn how to make French macarons from a local chef on board the ship or discover wine caves in the medieval basements of Cave Historique Des Hospices, a hospital founded in 1395. The space also is a wine museum, which features 40 ancient wine barrels marking the region’s history – the oldest dating back to 1472. The experience culminates with tasting fine Alsatian varietals bottled in the caves.

Then, the vacation extends to Germany.

In Rüdesheim, Germany, guests bike through the quaint town and its surrounding wine country, which is the birthplace of pinot noir and Riesling. Other optional excursions include a tasting at Adolf Störzel Vineyards, where they’ll walk the rows of grapes before tasting wine accompanied by soft pretzels. A Rüdesheim gondola ride to the Niederwald Monument highlights the panoramic views of Old Town, wine country and the Rhine River. The experience continues with exploring Rüdesheim and savoring a cup of the famous local coffee or hot chocolate.

Since it’s a Disney vacation, the experience wouldn’t be complete without that magical castle moment. So the excursion also includes an evening castle cruise through Rhine Gorge. That night, guests learn about the history of 30 castles and participate in a Rüdesheimer coffee demonstration/tasting on the sun deck.

Specialty sailings are adult-exclusive departures (ages 18 and older).

2. Desserts at Ryla 

Ryla, the Hermosa Beach hotspot, hosts thought-provoking Koji fermenting events, showcasing a combination of Japanese-Taiwanese-American flavors by Ray Hayashi. The food at Ryla is unpretentious but thoughtfully sourced. Think: Perigord black truffle fried rice and Hokkaido scallop sashimi with meyer lemon, satsuma mandarin and bonito crème fraîche.

The desserts at Ryla really stand out – especially the matcha tiramisu, a delicate mascarpone layered take on the Italian classic served in a wooden sake vessel and dusted with matcha powder.

3. Alcohol-free cocktails at Knife Pleat 

Knife Pleat is known for chef Tony Esnault’s exquisitely executed French food. That’s what garnered the South Coast Plaza restaurant a Michelin star. However, the new interesting addition to Knife Pleat’s menu is found on the cocktail list.

The cocktails, which launched in January, are made with alcohol-free tequila and gin. The spirits are infused with herbs and botanicals in-house. The drinks aren’t simply fruit juices splashed with soda water, they’re actually well-crafted like a real cocktail. The alcohol-free Greyhound margarita splashed with grapefruit tastes like tequila.

“Well, technically, it is tequila,” explains our server. “The only difference is it’s not fermented. So that’s why it’s alcohol-free.”

4. Sake tasting at Ototo 

Even though the unassuming Echo Park location is easy to overlook, Ototo’s sake on draft and travel guide-like menu allows guests to imbibe the flavors of several regions in Japan. The servers describe the sake as a sommelier would speak about a wine. The experience is informative yet approachable. Sake shouldn’t be scary. It’s celebratory and ceremonial. Locals saddle up to the bar and neighborhood regulars occupy small tables. At Ototo, the sake is paired with izakaya-style fare such as okonomiyaki and karaage chicken.

5. Addison

Addison is Southern California’s first and only three-Michelin-star restaurant. Crowned with its third star this year, the restaurant is the pinnacle of fine dining in the region. Located on the grounds of the Fairmont Grand Del Mar in San Diego County, Addison is worth the drive.

Chef William Bradley is an avid food historian and activist. He cares a lot about where our food comes from, what it does to our bodies and how it ultimately affects our planet. The nine-course menu changes with the season and highlights local purveyors. Bradley is also quick to credit “artisans” – chef de cuisine Jonathan Brambila, sous chef Miguel Baez, director of service Sean McGinness – who make a meal at Addison possible.

6. Sugar Lab 

The Los Angeles-based Sugar Lab prints customizable powdered sugar 3D sculptures. Pumpkin spice latte chocolates shaped like coffee cups and nutty Hojicha-flavored milk chocolate “sushi rolls” are giftable. Boxes of edible sugar sculptures are easy to send. The personalized bites are popular for weddings and company parties.

Also, Sugar Lab launches limited savories including a series of 3D printed bouillon shaped like Cup Ramen, a kimchi jar and a Korean-style corn dog.

7. Automatic cold brew machine from Shine Kitchen Co.

Coffee is expensive. With prices rising on everything edible, many consumers have cut back on their caffeine habit, starting with their daily visits to coffee shops. Shine Kitchen Co. hopes to capture some of these discerning consumers. Already known for its cold-press juicers and spiralizers, the appliance maker this year released a cold-brew coffee machine. The zero-heat machine can brew up to 40 ounces of cold brew coffee in 10-20 minutes, and its BPA-free glass carafe contains an additional filter that improves flavor.

8. The best burger in L.A.

It seems so basic, but we Southern Californians love a good burger. The chef-and-critic-favorite burger of the moment is served at Moo’s Craft Barbecue. The husband-and-wife-owned barbecue restaurant began as a backyard operation in 2017 and is now a Michelin-recognized eatery. Most visitors order the large meat platters, but Los Angeles foodies order the burger – before they sell out.

I kept thinking this as I made my way up old stone steps into the lushness of Kauai’s Limahuli Garden and Preserve. Never have I experienced so many shades and forms of the color green, all in one place. This 1,000-acre valley teams with precious flora and fauna that include plants and birds on the verge of extinction – extinction largely caused by non-native species pushing aside what belonged here first.

It felt appropriate that my first day on Kauai, the “Garden Isle” of the Hawaiian archipelago, should be spent at Limahuli learning about ahupua’a, an indigenous resource management system used by native Hawaiians for hundreds of years. This was going to be a different kind of vacation.

I’ve visited Oahu many times over the years and love it, but that island experience has been molded around the tourism industry – Hawaiian culture packaged and made easily digestible. Here though, the rugged, largely rural landscape of Kauai’s North Shore – framed by serrated mountain ranges, a two-lane main road and sterling beaches – demands that you, visitor, take a step back and consider your place in the order of things. The question is, how can a vacationer enjoy the paradise that is Kauai while not draining all that makes it special in the first place?

Tread lightly.

At the northwestern tip of the island lies Hā’ena State National Park and Mount Makana, a legendary place for those who claim Hawaiian ancestry, where tradition tells of gods delivering the art of hula to mortals. (Of course Hollywood discovered the place and etched it into popular memory as “Bali Hai” in the 1958 movie spinoff of the musical “South Pacific.”) It’s the gateway to the pristine, protected Nā Pali coast.

Evidently, travelers used to be able to drive all the way up to the beach there, but in the aftermath of massive landslides and flooding that devastated the area in 2018, access has been drastically limited. Now a shuttle service takes you to the park entrance, a place where the intrepid can brave the strenuous, two-hour hike to Hahakapi’ai Falls. My companions said it was spectacular, but I’ll take their word for it. I decided to commune with nature on the white sand of Ke’e Beach … looking not unlike the lone monk sea who sunned himself not 15 yards from me….

Along Kuhio Highway – the island’s main access route, a two-lane road, where there’s a one-lane access at the bridge over Hanalei River – going to and from Ha’ena State National Park you see hand-painted signs that say “Try Slow,” which feel like an invitation not only to mind the speed you’re traveling but to consider an entirely different way to be in the world.

Slow is also the pace at the innovative campus of Common Ground, a former sugar plantation-turned-regenerative farm that sees its future as a place where people can gather to connect around food events, art and education, and support local businesses.

Do what I did and spend an afternoon on the farm tour led by John Parziale, Common Ground’s director of agroecology, to experience what are not only sustainable ways for man and beast to eat from the land, but practices that might, ultimately, restore the land. You just might come away feeling hopeful about the future.

My companions and I were staying at the Cliffs at Princeville, a comfortable and inviting timeshare/hotel perched, as the name suggests, right on cliffs overlooking the Pacific. Awarded numerous “eco-friendly” and “sustainable” laurels by the hospitality industry, the Cliffs supports the state-wide Mālama Hawai’i initiative, which helps tourists participate in hands-on, educational experiences that help the communities they visit, from beach cleanup to tree-planting to historic preservation and more.

The entire Princeville resort development on Kauai is vast, containing many properties –  including the seemingly requisite golf course – but the Cliffs have a particularly gentle, laid-back vibe where it’s enough just to gather at sunset to enjoy each other’s company as you watch the sun sink below the horizon.

Because I’m a horse owner and lifelong equestrian, I always feel I know a landscape best when I have ridden across it. Lucky for me, just minutes from the Cliffs is one of the state’s oldest ranches, Princeville Ranch.

Rides there aren’t your usual tourist affair, where horses are lined up like mechanical, interchangeable vehicles plodding forward. For wrangler Lucie Olivova, it’s a mindful affair; she takes time to introduce you to your mount by name, explaining the horse’s personality and preferences. Before heading out into the verdant expanse of the ranch, she takes time to review riding basics, and asks that you open your heart to the experience of being one with the creatures and the land. All of it makes for a beautiful, fulfilling two-hour experience.

Heading back to the Cliffs, I needed to stop and get a few refreshments at the Foodland grocery store next to the resort. When I got to the checkout, the clerk asked if I had a customer rewards number, as if I were a local shopper.

“No,” I said, “just visiting.”

She smiled. “Oh you’ll be back. Let’s get you set up with one.”

I knew then she was right. Kauai had shown me the way to visit without invading.

Sidebar: Take ‘Island Wisdom’ along

For the traveler who wants to really get inside not only the beauty of Hawaii but the mindset and cultural philosophy of its people, “Island Wisdom: Hawaiian Traditions and Practices for a Meaningful Life” by By Kainoa Daines and Annie Daly is a must-read.

Daines, a Native Hawaiian and Hawaii’s tourism industry executive, teams up with Daly, a travel journalist, to lead an inspirational journey through Hawaiian teachings. They guide readers through four key themes – aloha (love), ʻāina (land), mo‘olelo (stories) and ‘ohana (family) – in the hope that we will come away with the tools needed to weave Indigenous Hawaiian culture, language and values into our own lives.

The writers island-hopped to interview Hawaiian community leaders, activists, teachers, farmers, storytellers, elders and more, who shared their wisdom on the essence of Hawaiian living. Readers come away understanding that Hawaii is much more than a vacation spot or a backdrop for a Hollywood drama – it can be a beautiful example of how to lead a more meaningful life, no matter where you are.

Kā’anapali Beach, which means “rolling cliffs,” is three miles of stunning Hawaiian coastline located on the west side of the island. Nestled in the center was the Kā’anapali Beach Hotel, flanked by towering palm trees, with windows facing the translucent sea. Opening its doors in 1964, the property and the staff are rooted in traditional Hawaiian culture and customs, eager to share their history and the connection to the islands. I knew I was in the right place.

Entering the lobby, you can smell the humidity. If I squinted, I could get on board with the kitsch of it all – the original ’60s decor seemingly still intact. More than half the hotel recently underwent a complete renovation, with the rest of the hotel (lobby included) set to be remodeled in the near future.

Two of the four themed guest buildings boast new, “premium” rooms that have been remodeled and modernized with environmentally friendly upgrades. One enhancement: an electrical wall panel by the door requires your room key to be inserted for the lights and electricity to work, so when you’re out of the room nothing stays on unnecessarily (also a convenient place to keep your key).

Every room offers gorgeous views, and some are simply breathtaking. Beachgoers took turns jumping off the volcanic ocean cliff called Black Rock, and whales breached the water – showing off with massive splashes to applause from the beach.

(Oddly, the rooms don’t offer robes or room service, which for a hotel of this caliber and price point, surprised me. However, the restaurant and café offer pick-up orders, so there are options for in-room dining. And I think I made a good case with the manager for robes in the rooms. Fingers crossed!)

At Moanaku’inamoku, the ocean activities hut, you can grab towels for the pool or beach and rent all manner of water activity equipment. Do yourself a favor and take the Kilo Moana class, where a knowledgeable staff member details the rich history of Kā’anapali Beach and the neighboring islands, as well as the current dangers and ways to safely enjoy the beach, snorkeling and paddleboarding.

The grounds are luxurious but maintain an intimate quality. And, as a woman traveling alone, I felt completely safe wherever I went. When I ran into any staff member, they were always warm, friendly and seemed eager to help with any request – ending all conversations with a sing-song “Mahalo.”

The crown jewel of the hotel is its restaurant, Huihui. The restaurant is the only one on the beach where every seat in the house has an ocean view. I chatted with folks at the bar between bites of salt & pepper wings and realized that many of them were guests at neighboring hotels, making the trip to Huihui for a meal. A few feet from crashing waves, the wide-open design and tiki hut roof embody indoor-outdoor living.

Tom Muromoto, the executive chef and Food and Beverage director who has worked for the hotel for 23 years, oversees all the food at the resort. As we discussed his favorite dishes and his love of fusion cooking, his face exuded a mixture of pride and contentment.

“My dad was a fabulous cook, and my influence really came from my upbringing and how Hawaii is so influenced by so many flavors of food,” he says. “The last half of my career was mostly traveling, trying to get to other countries to learn different foods – from Vietnam to Japan to Hong Kong.”

Chef Muromoto’s globetrotting is evident in every bite. The menu is eclectic and worldly, but each item has an element that keeps it rooted in Hawaii.

The goodbye lei ceremony is offered a few times a day for departing guests. Beautiful words are spoken, a sweet song is sung, and each guest is given a lei made of the kukui nut – a nut used to bring “light” to the people.

Before I headed back to the bustle of the mainland, I relaxed in one of the hotel’s other open-air restaurants with unobstructed views of the sea, sipping a blended Goodie Guri, while warm ocean breezes blew against my skin. I was wearing linen in February, watching whales jump out of the ocean and dolphins swim by and thought, you don’t get closer to tropical paradise than this.

My boyfriend and I stand on our balcony at the Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, awe-struck and pointing to what will become that very image in an hour or two.

“We’re in Hawaii,” we keep saying to each other, as if we can’t quite believe it.

Then we scrambled into our suits and ran across the street to Kuhio Beach Park for a swim.

Oahu is a great place to start if you, like us, have never been to Hawaii. The most visited – and populated – of the islands, the “Gathering Place” is home to stunning landscapes, the state capital (Honolulu), Pearl Harbor, North Shore and iconic Waikiki Beach, just to name a few.

What I’m saying is: there’s something for everyone here, and we did our best to cover some of it.

Waikiki Beach

With a killer view of Diamond Head State Monument, the Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort & Spa is a massive, full-service beachfront complex designed for events, families and folks who like to do and be where the action is.

The resort houses multiple shops and restaurants and was recently revitalized to include an impressive outdoor deck featuring two pools, an activities turf, a restaurant, bar and fire pits – all of it overlooking Queens, the most famous surf break on Waikiki.

You can take a hula lesson or a yoga class, grab breakfast, then head across the street for a surf lesson. Bring a bag so you can sample one of several spots along Kalākaua Avenue before hopping a catamaran to snorkel at Turtle Canyon. Make an Island Vintage Shave Ice – lilikoi, boba and mochi, oh, my! – your afternoon delight, then take a sunset painting class.

Kalanianaʻole Highway

A local friend of mine picked us up for a drive on the Kalanianaʻole Highway, so we could marvel at Oahu’s southeast shorelines (wear your suit for a dip at the Halona Blowhole Lookout) before getting out to walk the Makapuʻu Point Lighthouse Trail, bottles of Shaka Tea clutched in our hands.

She told us to steer clear of Sandy’s Beach because of the undertow (we did), and to try Diamond Head Market & Grill (sadly, we did not), and that there were certain places she didn’t want me to write about (too many tourists already). Then she dropped us at the Kaimana Beach Hotel for lunch at the Hau Tree Lanai Restaurant, because this was one place we absolutely had to try, and it was close enough for us to walk back to our hotel.

Sipping an e komo mai – a stellar mocktail made from pineapple, guava, lilikoi, orgeat syrup, lime and iced tea – I marveled not just at the menu, but also the laid-back vibe of the boutique hotel. This place is just right for couples like us, I thought. It’s something we later confirmed by returning for a swim in the calm, uncrowded waters of Kaimana Beach.

We had every intention of wandering Waikiki to gauge the nightlife, but we ended up bearing witness to the wildness from our balcony instead – and even from 30 stories up, we could tell it was going off. Which was good enough for us.

Four Seasons Oahu

Leaving Waikiki for the small community of Ko Olina on the island’s leeward (west) coast meant a very costly 45-minute cab ride (see below for tips), but once we arrived, we could see it was worth it.

The sprawling Four Seasons Resort property is self-contained and lushly landscaped, located between the Lanikuhonua Cultural Institute and Aulani Disney Resort & Spa. Our room had an incredible ocean view, just water and wild coastline for miles. From the patio, we watched white water break over black volcanic rock and – wait! – what is that on the sand? Monk seals, sunning themselves! We wanted to grab a snorkel and go.

But first: food. Namely, ginger and scallion broiled Kona Kampachi (Hawaiian yellowtail) from James Beard Award-winning Chef Michael Mina’s Fish House, served al fresco in front of the resort’s man-made lagoon.

The next day, we started lagoon hopping – paddle boarding first, then snorkeling through Lanikuhonua and on to Paradise Cove, where I finally got to swim with the fishes! All about us were striped Moorish idols, skinny trumpetfish and a lone turtle, sticking its head out of the water like a telescope.

Then it was time to sample the Four Seasons activities programming: Inspired by the ancient Polynesian traditions of wayfinding, #FSWAYFINDERS features in-depth workshops, including resin painting with local artisan Christian Bendo and the ancient cultural practice of lauhala weaving with Pi’iali’i Lawson. We lost ourselves for a few hours of wood burning with Christian and then sat for a sound bath with Pi’iali’i, who is also a gifted intuitive healer.

I sipped coffee on our deck the last morning of our stay, staring out at the ocean. “The only thing that would make this better,” I said, “is if we saw whales right now.”

No sooner were the words out of my mouth when the white belly of a breaching humpback whale appeared in the distance.

The Four Seasons promo materials say, “Whatever the perfect vacation looks like to you, we’ve got it here – mai ka la hiki a ka la kau – from sunrise to sunset.” I have to say, I wholeheartedly agree.

We can’t wait to come back.

If you go: Oahu travel tips

• Fly Hawaiian. Based out of Honolulu, rates are affordable and you’ll be immersed in island culture the moment you board.
• Use the Kaptyn car service to get to and from the airport. You can schedule your pick-up and drop-off in a fancy, chauffeur-driven and fully loaded Tesla Y. They’ll monitor the progress of your return flight for any changes, and you won’t have to slog through the shuttle to the rideshare lot.
• Rush hour traffic is insane (surge pricing had Uber clocking in at an astronomical $225 to drive 20 miles), and renting a car can be difficult due to limited availability and high prices. Instead, grab a shuttle service like Go Waikiki Shuttle and Tour to get to and from the airport AND take you on a curated, scenic drive of the island. Want to hike Diamond Head? Grab a cab for shorter excursions – they’re sitting outside the hotel.
• Get your Groupon. Start looking for deals before you leave. You’ll score on hiking tours, snorkeling, surf lessons and more. Before buying, make sure you’ll be able to redeem them during your dates on the island.